Models Manual

Interview of Claire Wang

by Gabrielle K-Z & Marta Torres

How did you get into modeling?

I got scouted by my mother agent Olivia at a festival a few years ago. She’s basically a surrogate mum.

What is the most important to you in what you do?

Contributing to the representation of Asians and showing people who look like me that you don’t have to be pale, white or blonde to be worthy. I remember growing up wishing I wasn’t Asian because all signs were pointing towards me being a second class citizen, woman and human for looking the way I do. It’s difficult even now because the inherent bias still exists very strongly, even when people don’t realize they’re doing it. I invite you to calculate the proportion of East Asian compared to Caucasian models in any fashion show.

How do you usually prepare for a photo shoot?

I just try and get some sleep and usually fail because I’m stressed about oversleeping. The least I can do is hide behind my hair then when I look tired as hell!

How do models really feel about test shoots?

I love test shoots when it feels like a collaboration. It’s a mutually beneficial agreement but I don’t feel that everyone understands that some of the time. I don’t like it when I’m not included or given any due ownership of what we produce. People and ‘friends’ who conveniently never reply after I give my time to work on a test shoot together bother me a lot. There’s memes about models constantly never receiving test shoot photos for a reason. It happens all the time and it’s pretty disrespectful. When someone is truly enthusiastic about trying to make something good together rather than just needing a random body on a set I’m 100% in for it. Nobody is getting paid, so what is the point if you’re not both moving to create something worthwhile?

What is some bad advice you got when you were starting? If you could go back to the beginning of your career, what advice would you ignore?

Some models I met early on told me to just say yes to every option and job because you never know when the next one will come. That is of course true, but I don’t think it means we should be pressured into doing things if we just don’t really want to. I learnt to prioritize my university exams as well as my own well-being. I took a big break this summer from modeling because my mental health took a huge dive from some personal issues and I couldn’t physically handle having to be under studio lights on my feet all day. I needed a break and I don’t regret ‘missing out’ on anything because I’m overall happier now and that’s all that matters. Always look after yourself. Modeling is stressful as it’s basically being freelance except with no real control over pushing for work. We just have to wait for our agents to tell us something good but it’s so important to try not let that have any impact on self esteem or stress levels. Booking modeling jobs does not at all define personal worth.

What was your favorite photo shoot and why? Because of the final pictures or the experience of the shoot itself?

I shot a little campaign at the Fendi headquarters in Rome a couple years ago. I loved everything about it - the team were so chill when I had expected a big designer like that to have a very strict production going. Everyone just ran with it, and the photographer Ivan was a one-man-band running around with a bunch of film cameras just freestyling with us models. It was such a fun few days and I still love the photos today as well. I felt like they actually valued my personality and input; a lot of bookers like to schmooze you and say, “we love your personality!”… then I’m styled and dressed like a caricature ethnic token and getting underpaid compared to the conventional white model who comes in next. I understand there’s a level of acting in modeling but I don’t appreciate a pretense. It’s fine to tell me you like my look and who you want me to be that day, but perhaps don’t sit there and pretend you’ve spent any time caring about who I am. I’m just a bit done with all the bullshitting people do in the industry to try and milk you and undervalue you. I feel like this, crystalized, is when people ask “how have you been” and then start immediately talking before you’ve even taken a breath.

Have you ever had a bad experience on a photo shoot?

Only one truly bad one. Someone I believed was a friend underhandedly took some photos I explicitly didn’t consent to. They uploaded and printed photos I had previously asked them to delete and then also posted them. They then further resisted when I asked them to take it down multiple times. They had also made a pass at me too after only agreeing to do the shoot if I could stay the night at the location because they ‘needed more time’ and then basically didn’t feel like actually working on anything when I had ideas that evening. I just felt incredibly disrespected and that my trust had been undermined. Finally, they then called me a ‘snake’ and never got an apology.

Did you feel that moment would change your life? Your career? (Have you overcome what happened? How?)

I brushed it off for a while as a bad misunderstanding but it continued to eat me up. My suspicions just shot up and I started being a lot colder to people I met through work because I was afraid of making false friends and being treated like that again. I also later found out that people I knew who had shot with this person all had uncomfortable, uneasy experiences of some sort and I couldn’t do anything anymore. I spoke to the girls and their agencies as well as the client who I originally met the photographer through and I have been told they no longer work there and got written off by associated agencies. I am annoyed that I didn't do something sooner but I spent a while thinking it was just a one-off unfortunate circumstance or a misunderstanding I helped create by being too friendly. Thinking back, I tried to make the shoot into just one day and drive us back at 2am instead of staying the full night but they made me feel like I was letting down my friend if I didn’t commit to the whole thing. I was naive.

Did you feel supported by those around you? By your mother agency?

My mother agency was amazing. They helped me try and make some action actually happen. We can shout on Instagram all we like but blacklisted photographers continue to roam our industry in a very significant way in spite of it. It’s unfortunate that a few friends and models I spoke to seemed to sympathise with me or condemn the behavior but still openly support the person. I’m not really sure what to think anymore.

In your opinion, what is the first thing a person should do in a situation like yours? Is there anything you wish you had done differently?

Speak to your agency immediately or just someone you trust. Don’t wait on it - if you were disrespected or mistreated then it is their absolute duty to help you and they want to. If they don’t then get a new agency or message me and I’ll help, honestly. I’m so regretful I didn’t support myself properly because I blamed myself and in the meantime other girls had more bad experiences. The power dynamics are so unfavorable to models across the industry but hopefully we can fix that.

Has your attitude about modeling changed since then? If so, how?

As much as I love many parts of modeling and what I do, it’s much more just a job to me now. I really have always preferred being behind the lens. When I was 11, I wrote in my yearbook that being a photographer was my dream job. I have far less patience for being treated like a brainless being on set and being moved and pushed around by people as if I can’t interpret any kind of verbal instruction or have any form of opinion. I’m moving much more into my own images or collaborating more on concepts with photographers who want to hear what I think.

What is true empowerment for you?

Being in control of my own time. Since leaving school, I’ve been training myself to stop doing things I just don’t enjoy just to please other people. I’m not much of a big partier and I don’t drink anymore because the environment just doesn’t bring me any happiness. I love dancing and socializing but not in the context I feel like it most commonly comes in. As a result, I know I don’t fit in so well at university but I know I’m far happier ‘missing out’ than forcing myself to do things in order to feel like a part of things. I prefer sitting at home alone, color grading photos and playing League and now I accept that is perfectly fine as well.

What are you most proud of?

Passing my medical school exams in the last three years. Fingers crossed I get through the next three!